Journalist Michelle Jackson shares her experience celebrating a very special birthday with her family, cruising Japan with Princess Cruises, onboard Diamond Princess.
It was only our first night on board the Diamond Princess cruise ship and as we finished our lavish spread of Japanese cuisine, the regal treatment had begun. I booked this nine-day circular cruise of Japan to celebrate my big round-numbered birthday. Although it was three days away, Jing (our waitress) presented me with a birthday cake at the end of our meal – making me feel like a princess already.
Being twenty years old, the Diamond Princess is one of the older in the fleet of four star ships but it is up to date with a luxurious re-fit and from the moment we stepped on board the surprises kept coming. Lovely touches like strawberries dipped in chocolate and a bottle of champagne wishing me a Happy Birthday meant that I could really milk this celebration.
Our next day was spent at sea and this gave us an opportunity to get to know the facilities on board the ship. My daughter, Nicole, discovered The Sanctuary – an adult only pool with plush loungers from where she enjoyed the luxury of ordering food and cocktails using the Princess App on her phone. Since boarding, our medallions became the method to open and lock our cabins and pay for drinks and extras. We opted for the all-inclusive drinks package that allows up to 15 drinks per day.
A special addition to the spa on board includes two traditional Japanese onsen bath houses – separated by sex. I went to the hair salon for a blow dry, while my son Mark, who’s a personal trainer, made the most of the excellent facilities in the gym. Meanwhile, my partner Terry was absorbed in the quiz happening in the Explorers Lounge on deck six, proving what I already knew – that there really is something for everyone on a cruise.
Another fun offering was the chance to dress up in traditional summer kimonos, known as yukata, and then we had our pictures taken. We opted for the family photo bundle that meant we could download all the professional photos taken of us during the nine day trip and get six printed up to take home. Throughout our stay free classes offering origami or learning about samurai swords filled our time making our oriental experience all absorbing.
After only two nights at sea we arrived at our first port of call to the historic city of Nagasaki – where the atom bomb dropped in 1945 brought an end to Japan’s part in the Second World War. The legacy is engrained in the statues and monuments dotted around the city and for our first excursion we were brought to the Atomic Bomb Museum. There is an eeriness around visiting centers like this that stays with you and for our family it was a lesson in the cruelty of man. Remnants include household items, some made of metal, now twisted artifacts having melted from the impact. All the dust covered clocks are stuck at 11:02 a timely reminder of a moment that changed the world forever.
For Nicole however the highlight of being on terra firma was finding her first Family Mart store – that was an education in itself as the vast array of unusual food and drinks in Japan was something new to me. Nicole’s generation is familiar with such oddities as watermelon flavoured Kit Kat and picked up some unique sweet treats for her friends back home. It’s worth noting that many small stores in rural towns still require cash to make purchases.
We pulled into Busan, South Korea, on the morning of my actual birthday. Our excursion first brought us to the coastal Temple of Haedong Yonggungsa – clinging to a cliff face this architectural marvel pays homage to Buddha with the most spectacular sea views. Following a trip on the Haeundae Beach Train we arrived for a lunch of Korean Barbeque. It was an epic experience where we cooked our own beef and vegetables over hot coals. A stop off at the iconic village of Gamcheon to take photos of the stepped dwellings led to some bargain shopping for facemasks and fancy ankle socks.
Back on the ship that evening more fruits of the sea were on offer at the pop up restaurant Crab Shack. As we were handed bibs to save our clothes from any collateral damages, we set to work on a large bucket of crustaceans. Japan is renowned for seafood and the Diamond Princess offers the very best crayfish, lobster and small shellfish. At the end of our meal of course there’s another happy birthday sung by the attentive waiting staff – as more cake arrived!
We had to waddle off the ship next morning as we pulled into the port of Tsuruga where another bespoke experience found us learning how traditional Kombu is made from kelp (or seaweed). The fascinating tour of a factory that supplies Michelin star restaurants all over the world is followed by a lunch in a local brewery to enjoy the flavours of kombu served with octopus.
The lovely thing about the stops on this cruise is we were brought to see parts of Japan that would be out of bounds for most visitors taking a road tour. As we arrived in Sakiaminato we couldn’t be further away from the hustle of Yokohama where we boarded the ship. A short transfer and we arrived in the fishing village of Mihonoseki – a town with the remoteness of Killybegs. Here we visited Miho, a shinto shrine dedicated to the deity Ebisu who governs those who live and work on the sea. The local priest appeared and gave us a blessing to send us on our nautical journey safely – a truly special and unique experience in contrast to the overcrowded temples in Kyoto and Osaka. This was followed by lunch in a traditional restaurant looking out over the fishing harbour. Local chef Tomomi Obara, taught us how to make sushi and feast on our efforts that turned out to be delicious – all washed down with Sake made locally.
We opted for a special event at the Grand Tuscan Dining Experience in Sabatini’s that evening where a wine pairing was included on the menu. The main dining rooms are open for two settings and with duck, steak and fresh fish there’s so much choice – expect to find caviar and escargot on the menus too. At the other end of the scale some of us were known to order a portion of fries back to the room after a night dancing at Skywalkers on deck 17 and I wasn’t completely blameless myself on that one. The Horizons buffet however gives all passengers the opportunity to eat healthy and moderately (or not) with a self service option.
Some parts of Japan’s interior are difficult to reach – even with its super smooth network of railways. Shirakawa-go is only an hour’s drive from the port of Toyohama making it ideal for a day trip on our next stop. This rural town is trapped in a time warp with traditional thatched houses pointing to the sky and preserved to show the agrarian techniques used for centuries showcasing Japanese efficiency. Nestled by mountain peaks and lush vegetation it is a wonderful way to spend the day in nature.
The port of Akita was our final stop another town off the beaten path where we were taken to learn about Geisha and witnessed a traditional tea ceremony and dancing – another bespoke experience that would be difficult to find on a self guided tour. The Geisha were charming and ended up teaching us traditional party games that had us in fits of the giggles.
I can’t write about Japan without mentioning Karaoke. Each evening the Explorers Lounge filled quickly with guests signing up to sing their favourite tunes. Most of the songs we could sing along to but there were some Japanese classics new to our ears. Bearing in mind the usual demographic has changed in recent years from 80% Japanese guests to now only about 30% and the majority are English speaking with many from Australia, Canada and the USA. We befriended a family from New Zealand who were also on board to celebrate their mother’s big birthday. An amazing phenomenon happens after a couple of days on board a cruise where you forget about your real life and the companions you make become your entire world. Our evenings were filled with cocktails and dancing or going to see west-end style entertainment in one of the theatres.
I’ve been on many cruise ships but this was my first with Princess and turning 60 onboard couldn’t have been a better way to celebrate. There’s a good reason why passengers have been sailing with this cruise line for 60 years and coming back again and again. Japan is becoming an increasingly popular bucket-list destination and the weak Yen makes it even more attractive. If you really want the full Princess treatment, then this may just be the perfect cruise for you and your family – it certainly was for ours!
Michelle was a guest of Princess Cruises and JWT Travel. This article was originally published on the Irish Daily Mail and Belfast Telegraph. For more from Michelle Jackson see: The Novel Traveller
Would you like to cruise Japan? Find more details on this trip: CIRCLE JAPAN CRUISE
SPECIAL: Circle Japan on Diamond Princess Cruises – 9 nights – 2nd July 2027, from €2695pps including flights from Ireland*. Offer subject to availability.
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